Monday, June 29, 2009

Hiking in Issyk Ata

Right before training ended, we took a day trip into the mountains just South of Bishkek to a resort town called Issyk Ata. We didn't partake in any of the resort's ammenities, but instead chose to hike up though hills.

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Traditional Kyrgyz yurts used a temporary residence for bringing livestock to the mountains during the summer.

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Sasha and I hiking in Issyk Ata.

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Beautiful grazing horses in the mountains. I know we speculated before I left for Kyrgyzstan, what would Kyrgyz horses look like?

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Osh Site Visit

I visited my site back in May to meet with my organization and my new host family. It was such a pleasant trip that I did not want to return to training. Osh is an awesome city.
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My new host mother Gavhar, sister Nigora, and I in front of our house.

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My new host parents, Gavhar and Kadir.

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My new host brother Aibek was visiting from the army and we all wanted to take pictures together. The younger brother is named Atabek.

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We went rollerblading at the square, where little Asel had the hardest time!

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Nigora and my new friends Umut and Asel.

Celebrating Easter with the Family

Back in my training village, we celebrated Russian Orthodox Easter as a family. I cannot remember whether or not I explained this tradition already, but I want to show the pictures.

An important part of the day was visiting the grave sites of those family members who cannot be present physically to celebrate with us. Many families brough picnics and set up tables next to the grave stones. Everyone brings flowers, candies, and gifts to lay on the graves. It was a festive environment, yet still quite sad.

Then we had guests over and ate a delicious lunch at the outside table. All of the guests came bearing gifts and colored eggs. It's as if the eggs are colored only to present to other families. So, by the end of the day, we had many colored eggs, but none of which we dyed ourselves.
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Mama Luba and Veka as they prepare to dye the eggs using old panty hose. The dye is made from the skins of red onions and the designs are made using weeds/leaves from the garden.

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Sasha and I - displaying the beautiful eggs that we helped dye.

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Keepin busy in spite of the heat...

My first week at work went really well. I still anticipate a long adjustment period before I really get my hands dirty. Yesterday I did get to tag along on some outreach work, which was really interesting. The whole office participated in a training on Friday on Outreach Work and Consultation on HIV. It was challenging for me linguistically, but I enjoyed connecting with my coworkers. Now I'm pouring most of my time into a grant that has a quickly approaching deadline. I don't want to jinx it, so I'll tell more about it if I get it.

But don't worry! There's fun to be had. Our city has several cool beer gardens, excellent ice cream, and a gigantic public pool. Long story short, this summer is starting off nicely.

Monday, June 22, 2009

Orphanages

Several orphanages hosted us during the first few months for various trainings. We are greatly indebted to them for their hospitality. Luckily, we had lots of time to play!

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Teaching and playing with the children from the Dmitrievka orphanage.

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More Dmitievka orphanage fun.

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Carnival games and such at Kirgshelk orphanage.

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Letting the orphans get hold of the facepaint was one of the funniest mistakes of training.

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

Way Off Topic

I know this is off topic, but I feel out of the loop as to what is cool right now in America. Let me know what you're enjoying right now, here's the dish on my current tastes:

When it was still gloomy this Spring I was diggin Bon Iver's latest EP, specifically the title track Blood Bank. Check it out. But now that it's sunny and hot, hot, hot in Osh, I'm liking the poppy stuff that you can hear in every bar/restaurant in town. Most of all they love Akon (crazy, I know). I will admit he has some catchy tunes.

Also, speaking summer, please tell me that you've checked out Summer Heights High. It's a hilarious mockumentary orignally aired on Australian TV. It makes me laugh after I've had a long day in Kyrgyzstan.

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

First Host Family

I had to say goodbye to my great host family in my northern Kyrgyzstani village. I'm excited to call the South my home now, but I wanted to share some pics from the family that I will miss.

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My adorable host neices, Nastia and Veka, playing with our newest baby kitten. Spring in the village means lots of babies (chickens, lambs, bunnies, and puppies too).

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Mama Luba and I in her garden. PC made us pose for this one, she's not fond of being photographed so I have to thank them for making her.

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Nastia and Veka again, this time at our Going Away party.

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Mama Maria gracefully hosted us for all of our language lessons, while Albina (the younger woman) taught us from the very beginning. We were certainly difficult to communicate with at the time, but they did their best! This photo is from Sasha's birthday party.

More from Culture Day

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Luxembourg volunteers performing the ceremony of a Kyrgyz baby's first crib.

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Young Kyrgyz kids tired after a long day of performances.

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Bride and groom celebrating their "Russian Wedding."

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All of the host families and participants of our village's cultural presentation. We were very proud.

Friday, June 12, 2009

Kyrgyz Kindness

So far the Kyrgyz people have treated me with such kindness. My training host mother is a prime example and it's hard to say how much I've been able to give back. I know that I've definitely listened to her more than most of her family. Unfortunately, many of those one-sided conversations involved me feigning understanding (I am way too good at this!). But the night before I would be leaving her house to move to the south, we really had a nice heart-to-heart. We talked about life and love and how difficult it is to make decisions that affect other people.

My language skills are slowly improving to the point that I can address more complex topics, but I think this conversation was more special than that. After living with her everyday for the past 11 weeks, she and I have developed our own communication methods. She knows when to gesture to bring the point across and what vocabulary I am most familiar with. Vice versely, she can understand my misnomers and poorly constructed sentences more than anyone. The heart-to-heart conversation made it more difficult to say goodbye. She shed some tears as we parted ways on Wednesday, and for me, reflecting back on it right now evokes a similar emotion.

I just can't get over how human beings overcome so many obstacles to communicate with one another. It's fascinating and inspiring. I'm also at that point where I wonder: Did I really need another person to miss? I have plenty on the other side of the planet!

Kind marshrutka drivers, kind local children, and many more kind hearted community members have given me a warm impression of this country. Everything about this country is so different than I expected, but I somehow feel exactly like I expected I would.

Friday, June 05, 2009

The big 2. 1.

I want to wish my very special brother a very happy birthday! I wish I could be there to celebrate his 21st birthday!

Know that somewhere on the other side of the globe, a table full of Russians, Kyrgyz, and Americans are saying a toast to congratulate you. No joke.

Now I can breath easily

Bam! 10 weeks into language training, I reached Intermediate-Mid on my Language Proficiency Interview. I feel so relieved to have reached the goal that I set for myself. I hit some sort of Russian plateau a few weeks ago, but I powered through.

Now we have but a few more days in our training villages, to say goodbye and to celebrate our accomplishments. We're throwing a party on Sunday for all the host families in my village. We're supposed to cook American dishes for them, but I skeptical as to how they'll taste. It's bittersweet to leave this village that has been so welcoming. I have promised to visit. The 'swearing-in' ceremony on this upcoming Wednesday is a big day. We will officially become Peace Corps Volunteers.

Saturday, May 23, 2009

Culture Day - Russian Wedding

Culture Day - Blinie
My training village presented a Russian Wedding along with a traditional Russian celebratory dish (Blini) on Culture Day. Every village got together with their host families and village members to create great performances from Kyrgyz, Russian or Turkish culture.

Site Placement - Osh Oblast

Site Placement - Osh Oblast
All of the new volunteers who will be working in Osh Oblast. We were super excited, and now that I've visited Osh, I can say that were rightfully so.

‘Different Strokes for Different Folks’

Exchanging ideas and culture is like my job right now. I find it incredibly fun and rewarding. Since my language skills are so limited, I spend much too much time speaking about food. One of the first phrases that my host mother imparted on me was instigated when she found out that I drink tea without sugar. We discussed why I might do this and she made all kinds of speculation. The conversation ended with a proverb (I think) that cannot be literally translated very well, but means ‘different strokes for different folks.’ На вкус и цвет – товарищей нет. I love this phrase and use it often. My host mother finds my use of it hilarious and I always enjoy getting a laugh. I would try to teach you all, but I don’t think my phonetic typing of the phrase would be very accurate.

On the subject of tastes and how they vary from culture to culture and from individual to individual, I started thinking of certain tastes that I’ve acquired over the years. Those who remember that far back knew me as a very picky little child. I have definitely come full circle and eat most anything now. But I wonder where and how I made the decisions to broaden or even to narrow my horizons. I have some silly examples in my head, but that’s because the silly occasions are more memorable. I distinctly remember the first time I realized that I hated roller coasters, my first taste of sushi, the first time I enjoyed tuna, and the great taste exposé of beer that I experienced in Germany. Using that example, whenever I meet people who dislike beer, I usually think to myself that the only reason is that they’ve never lived in Germany. I know this is a gross generalization, but I can’t help but associate that location and that culture with the broadening of this particular taste in me.

This has me wondering what tastes of mine could be illuminated or developed here in Kyrgyzstan. My Russian host mother is training me to be more knowledgeable about flowers and, thus, more proactive about presenting them on all sorts of occasions. Also, I already find myself enjoying watching figure skating and musical performances much more than I ever thought I would. I am developing a new taste for chocolate butter. It’s not like Nutella or any other chocolate spread, it’s literally chocolate flavored butter. However, my absolute adoration of all potato dishes seems to be diminishing. Potatoes, potatoes, potatoes. I never thought I could get sick of them, but it is a possibility. On second thought, that’s impossible.

I’m sure others could comment on this topic more eloquently. Do you have a specific taste that you developed upon exposure to a new culture?

Saturday, April 25, 2009

Vocabulary 101

Chai – It’s the everyday term here used (in all languages) to refer to tea. I’ve been given both black and green teas at various occasions, but my family prefers black tea, with tons of sugar. They find it strange that I refuse to put tea in my sugar. Luckily, this has facilitated a learning opportunity about our differences, plus, I’ve now learned how to say a variant of ‘Different strokes for different folks’ in Russian. It’s my first of many Russian proverbs.

Banya – It’s by far the best time(s) of the week. For most of the families in these rural communities who lack indoor plumbing, bathing can be a luxury. We have a separate structure on the property, between the barn and the flower garden area, called the banya. It’s basically a sauna designed for bathing, although we do our laundry in it as well. The wood/coal burning stove is lit to heat the vat of hot water filled up in the corner of the sauna. The room becomes nice and cozy, hot, and when I bathe I can maneuver all kinds of buckets and bowls of hot or cold water to suit my bathing needs. I can see how this would be the only logical bathing method in harsh winter temperatures. Right now, it’s still, like I said, a luxurious experience.

Marshrutka – This is the primary mode of public transportation in the Chui Valley area (where I currently live) and I cannot really speak for other parts of the country where I think public transit is limited. It’s similar to a tall van, so passengers without a seat can stand in the aisles, but barely. The idea of personal space in a marshrutka is thrown out the window. And in my short time here so far, several marshrutka drivers have invited small groups of us to board the vehicle when it seems physically impossible for us to do so. He reassures us that lots of people are getting off at the next stop, as if this knowledge will allow us to defy the laws of physics. They are otherwise quite comfortable modes of transportation, in which elderly are ALWAYS given seats and change is passed back from the driver with utmost trust that no one will snatch some to short change his fellow rider.

Mayack – I’m not sure how widely used this Kyrgyz term is…it could very well be Peace Corps slang. Mayacking is when you need to talk to someone, but don’t have enough units on your cell phone. You call them and hang right up, which signals them to call you right back. Since no cell phone plans charge to receive calls here, it’s basically a collect call. Some Peace Corps staff encourage us to mayack them, so we don’t have to waste units when they have better cell phone plans. So, beware, I may mayack you. Just go with it.

Tuesday, April 07, 2009

Russian Lessons

Yowza! Sorry for the lack of posts. I've been insanely busy studying Russian like it's my job (since it is my job right now). Communicating with my host family is my number one goal right now...luckily, they are very patient with me and things are going as smoothly as could be expected.

It's much colder than I expected for April and the food is much tastier than I expected. I wish I could put together something thoughtful to share with you about this culture, but I think I need to settle in more. I need to get over the culture shock before I can discuss what's going on in my life intelligently. All I can say is that it's awesome and it truly is a world away.

PEACE AND LOVE,
CK

Friday, March 27, 2009

More Philly

Dork alert!
I woke up early this morning for a run through Philly. After yesterday's rain, today's sunshine was welcoming. Though chilly, the weather made for a very clean and fresh smelling city. It was a pleasant stroll along the Schulylkill River banks. The dorky part of the run was my destination, the Philadelphia Museum of Art, aka the Rocky stairs. And, yes, I ran up and down them multiple times while listening to Eye of the Tiger. Wow.

Nerd alert!
I spent the rest of this early morning visiting some historical sites of early America. Actually, it's a fitting way to say goodbye to America for the next 2 years.
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The Liberty Bell (which is both symbolic and historical) and I - imitating a pose from the Dalai Lama when he visited the bell. It's a little blurry because I was fighting with all the other tourists to get close enough for a photo.
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The Congress Hall, our nation's capital building until 1800. FYI - You can get some valuable historical information by following packs of middle schoolers on field trips.

I just gorged on a fabulous cheesesteak from a street vendor. Me and my full belly are headed to Peace Corps meetings for the rest of the day. Wish me luck meeting 60 new people in such a short time!

Thursday, March 26, 2009

Philadelphia Flyer

I think the general populace splits 50/50 on this issue, but I really do love flying. (Correct me if I'm wrong on this, by conducting your own non-scientific, non-random, double-blind survey.) Besides the fact that it’s a technological marvel every time a huge chuck of steel converts speed and lift into actual flight, I love the heavenly views of the clouds. It’s impossible to describe to someone who’s never seen it. These textured dollops of fluff seem to go one infinitely into the horizon.

Of course, there is the potential for things to go wrong. And, trust me, I’ve seen Planes, Trains, and Automobiles dozens of times. It’s a hilarious film that takes travel delays to the extreme. If you can see the comedy in these kinds of misfortunes, you’re one giant step ahead in the game.

I’ll share some of my favorite travel tips with you.
1) Laugh it off (see above)
2) Earn rewards miles! Don’t change your spending habits, just consolidate the method with which you pay for things.
3) Bring snacks. Cranky, hungry whiners make for poor travel companions.
4) Podcasts are interesting, educational, fun, and portable means to entertain yourself for hours.


I was going to add something about packing light, but the glaring hypocrisy was too much for me. That’s it from this Philadelphia hotel room. I'm talking with my current roommate, venting about our travels. Kelner, out.

Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Jetplane Lessons

So now that I'm leaving on a jet plane for my great adventure, I feel like reflecting on what I've learned so far:

Saying goodbye sucks. That must be why people write sappy songs about it (not like that helps).

Packing builds character. 'Cut the fat.' 'Make tough decisions.'

NO ONE has heard of Kyrgyzstan.

We all take the internet for granted. Yes, all of us.

I think that I am way funnier than I actually am. I crack myself up.

The word 'peace' means many different things to different people. For some it's powerful beyond measure. For others, it's lost all of its significance and intent.

People can be much more generous with their enthusiasm and support than you'd think. Especially considering the current state of the economy and global relations.

Nostalgia is a confusing emotion, more akin to a medical condition. It's equally harsh as it is sweet, equally manipulative as it is endearing. Beware.

People all have their own reasons for over-indulgence. Those who are gifted enough can really rationalize anything. That's why a little self-control goes a long way.

Let go of fear. Do it. And then change becomes infinitely more exciting. It is that easy.

When The Cure sang 'Boys Don't Cry,' they were being ironic.

My back is going to be killing me after schlepping these bags across the planet. Even with the best intentions, packing 'light' eludes me.

You can only see the best in people when you're looking for the best in people.


So many more lessons to be learned...none more important than: the journey is the reward.

Monday, March 02, 2009

Mailing Address during Pre-Service Training

Looking for a pen-pal? Although mail service can be unreliable, I'd love to hear from everyone. Once I get there, I can also come up with a list for care packages if you need inspiration. I'd label the envelope/box with both languages if possible, although I'm not sure how necessary that is.


Кыргызстан,
ин. 722140, г. Кант
ул. Ленина 97, РУПС
аб. ящик № 22
Courtney Kelner

Kyrgyzstan,
722140, Kant city
97 Lenina Street, RUPS
Mailbox # 22
Courtney Kelner








I will be using this as my mailing address until June. Since mail can be long delayed, I wouldn't send me anything here after April. I should have an updated one by then anyway.

**Edit:(a fellow volunteer has compiled some further details to illuminate the postal process)

YOU MUST PUT BOTH THE RUSSIAN AND ENGLISH ADDRESS ON ALL MAIL

I am told it’s important to tell the postal clerk that the letter/package is to be sent to Kyrgyzstan. The expected time for non-air mail to arrive is 4 to 6 weeks. Air mail is supposed to make it in 4-10 days, but I have heard from current volunteers that it will take several weeks regardless.

SECURITY:
Regardless of the method (surface or air), mail passes through several countries and postal facilities. Mail – especially packages – sent from the U.S. is a favorite target for opening/pilferage and theft/disappearance but there are things that can be done to reduce the risk of pilferage of packages. The primary one is to discourage opening by 1) making it hard and time consuming to open; and 2) making it hard to re-seal it (so that it isn’t so obvious that it was opened). The recommendation is to pack and seal the box (heavily) with tape. Using normal packaging tape and some durable “strapping” tape over it is best. Put an address label on it. Then wrap the box again with brown shipping paper and seal all seems with more tape. Obviously another address label is needed. Again, the idea is to make it look like it will be difficult to open (at all) and to reseal without it being obvious. The second suggestion is to place the symbol of Islam (the Islamic Crescent and Star - see above) on the package in several places. I'm told that this is particularly effective if the symbol is placed along the seams of the outer wrapping – so that it would have to be cut through in order to open the package. The last suggestion (from Peace Corps) for reducing pilferage or theft is to insure the package. I have no idea of the cost and haven’t heard from other volunteers if it has helped. If the USPS will insure a package and it’s affordable, it may make sense. At least the value of the contents could be recovered.

COST AND PACKAGE WEIGHT:
It may pay off to visit the Post Office and learn the “rules” from a postal clerk. Obviously, the costs are very high. I’ve been told that sending packages weighing more than 20 pounds is a huge problem and that it’s actually less expensive to send two lighter packages. Apparently the cost goes up drastically for a package weighing more and we’ve heard of the Postal Service refusing to accept packages over 20 pounds.